What are Cosmeceuticals in Skincare?
A Guide to Evidence-based Skincare Routine with Serums and Creams

1.1 What are Cosmeceuticals?

Cosmeceuticals represent an extremely special category that can bridge the gap between drugs and cosmetics. These products can be described as “a cosmetic product that exerts a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit but not necessarily a biologic therapeutic benefit” (1). Unlike drugs, which are defined by their biological effect on living tissues cosmeceuticals have both aesthetic and therapeutic effects; thus, they are extremely popular in skin care (2). Indeed, they have made their mark on the global personal care market. Even though some vagueness is associated with the exact definition and scope of these products, the interesting fact is that 30% to 40% of dermatologists' prescriptions from around the world contain a cosmeceutical (3). Basically, in order to understand the full concept of 'cosmeceuticals and their use in skincare,' one must learn about their definition, origin, how they differ from conventional cosmetics, types of cosmeceutical products available in the market, their specific applications and benefits, as well as how to incorporate these cosmeceuticals in your skincare routine.

 

1.1.1 Definition and Origin of Cosmeceuticals

Definition of Cosmeceuticals:

The term "cosmeceuticals" was coined in 1984 by Dr. Albert Kligman of the University of Pennsylvania. Cosmeceuticals are considered a separate type of commodity that falls in between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Usually, a cosmeceutical is said to provide a therapeutic benefit more or less similar to pharmaceuticals, although it would not have a biological therapeutic action. Dr. Kligman defined a cosmeceutical as "a topical preparation sold as a cosmetic but possessing performance characteristics that suggest pharmaceutical action" (3). The use of this term 'cosmeceutical' had a wide acceptance as a new class of cosmetics for providing benefit beyond beautification, falling short of being classified as drugs or pharmaceuticals.
 

Origin of Cosmeceuticals:
 

In India, the regulations of cosmetics are governed under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act of 1940, under the Central Drugs Standard Control Organization (CDSCO) (3). The intended use is defined by the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act as: "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance." Products falling under this definition include skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, nail polishes, makeup, shampoos, hair colors, toothpastes, deodorants, and any ingredient intended for use in a cosmetic product (4). Cosmeceuticals are formulated to fall between personal care and pharmaceuticals in terms of medicinal and cosmetic value. Cosmetics have been used for a very long time, dating back to ancient times, with the first recorded use dating back to the Egyptians around 4000 BC. Other ancient civilizations that used cosmetics include the Sumerians, Babylonians, and Hebrews. From the second century through the 19th century, Ceruse was a popular cosmetic in Europe.
 

1.1.2 Cosmeceuticals as a Subset of Nutraceuticals
 

Cosmeceuticals have traditionally been regarded as falling under the umbrella of the broader term, nutraceuticals. The latter refers to a heterogeneous group of products derived from food sources, taken to provide health benefits other than simple nutritional value.
 

The term "nutraceutical" was coined in 1989 by Stephen De Felice, combining "nutrition" and "pharmaceutical." He defined it as "a food (or part of a food) that provides medical or health benefits, including the prevention and/or treatment of a disease" (5). Nutraceuticals can derive from natural herbs, the food industry, dietary supplements, and the pharmaceutical industry, and increasingly from genetically engineered "designer" foods.
 

Whereas nutraceuticals have been considered for a large array of therapeutic areas related to, but not limited to, arthritis, digestive problems, cancer prevention and treatment, lipid and sugar control, osteoporosis, blood pressure regulation, and depression, considering skin applications, a nutraceutical can be defined as an orally administered product having cosmeceutical benefits (3).
 

Cosmeceuticals are formulated with active ingredients that have scientifically identified benefits toward skin health, targeting concerns like aging, hyper-pigmentation, and acne.

 

1.2 Differences Between Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

 

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) defines cosmetics as those products intended to be applied to the human body for beautifying, promoting attractiveness, modifying appearance, and cleansing. In the view of the FDA, the primary basis of the distinction between a cosmetic and a drug is based upon its intended use (6). One needs to   draw a line of demarcation between cosmeceuticals and traditional cosmetics to understand the former:
 

1.2.1 Cosmetics:
 

They are used for cleansing, beautifying, and altering the appearance of skin. Examples include makeup, perfumes, and hair care products. Though cosmetics are regulated for safety, they need not have any therapeutic action.
 

From smearing kohl on their eyes by ancient Egyptians to today's brilliant makeup palettes, cosmetics do much to enhance our appearance by one method or another.

 

1.2.2 Cosmeceuticals:

 

They not only enhance the appearance but also work therapeutically. These are formulated with scientifically validated active ingredients like vitamins, peptides, and antioxidants that have skin structure and function-altering potential, thereby dealing more profoundly with the specific skin problems. Unlike regular cosmetics, cosmeceuticals often have far greater active ingredients that might be able to:

 

1.3 Cosmeceuticals: Benefits and Applications

 

Cosmeceuticals are products that combine benefits from cosmetics and therapeutics to provide solutions for skin problems beyond just enhancing a person's looks.

 

1.3.1 Benefits of Cosmeceuticals

 

 

1.3.2 Targeted Applications of Cosmeceuticals:

 

In view of their activity for specific skin problems, cosmeceuticals are broadly classified, which can be briefly listed as:

 

1.4 Key Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

 

Cosmeceuticals are at the interface between science and skincare. They contain many ingredients that are likely to improve both health and appearance of the skin. Such ingredients may be classified based on their origin or on what they do.

 

1.4.1 Active Ingredients

 

Active ingredients are formulated compounds that give the targeted benefits of cosmeceutical products. They address skin problems, such as anti-aging, hydration, and repairing properties, which form the base of effective skincare. Unlike regular cosmetics, where these ingredients are usually not strong enough, they have enough concentration to make a noticeable difference in the user's skin within a reasonable amount of time (36).

Some notable active ingredients include retinoids, peptides, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, among others.

Role of Active Ingredients

The efficacy of cosmeceuticals rests with their active ingredients. These are the ingredients present in large amounts, usually more than what is contained in conventional cosmetics, and have various benefits on the skin. Some important active ingredients in cosmeceuticals include:

1.4.2 Natural Extracts

 

Though based upon scientific breakthroughs, cosmeceuticals also draw from nature itself. From plants and a variety of fruits, extracts have been procured that work miraculously on the human skin. This has many advantages because these extracts are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and trace elements which help to nourish and protect the skin. The infusion of such natural extracts within cosmeceuticals helps to serve the increasing demand for both effectiveness and purity in skincare (36).

Some common natural extracts used include:

1.4.3 Patented Ingredients

 

Patent ingredients are also a product of much research and innovation in the field of cosmeceuticals. Such proprietary formulations, backed by scientific research, are usually protected through intellectual property rights. Many a time, these offer next-level solutions to some long-standing skin problems. If you are picking products containing patented ingredients, then you are choosing state-of-the-art skincare technology (36).

 

1.4.4 Herbal Extracts

 

Herbal extracts are commonly used in traditional medicine for youthful skin. The said extracts, when formulated in cosmeceuticals, give an integrated approach to skincare due to their richness in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, and other bioactive compounds (36). Such commonly used herbal extracts include the following: Chamomile Extract, Turmeric Extract, Rosehip Oil, Licorice Root Extract, Witch Hazel, Calendula Extract, Cucumber Extract, Grapeseed Extract, Sea Buckthorn Oil, and Pomegranate Extract.

 

1.4.5 Hydrators and Moisturizers

 

Two major components that form a good skincare regime are hydrators and moisturizers. They both help recover and manage moisture in the skin to give out soft and supple skin. Their main tasks include dragging water into the skin, while moisturizers provide a barrier to hold the water inside the skin (36). A very good example of hydrators is Hyaluronic Acid, while Glycerin is a good moisturizer.

 

1.4.6 Vitamins, Minerals, and Antioxidants

 

Vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants have an integral connectivity with the skin's health. They protect and nourish the skin, so they are definitely some of the most critical ingredients of effective skincare. They seem to protect skin against environmental damage, increase collagen production, and promote total skin health. In cosmeceuticals, they provide an intensified dose of skin nutrition (36). Vitamins C and E are powerful antioxidants that combat free radicals, lighten skin tone, and enhance collagen synthesis, with zinc for wound healing and possibly balancing the production of oils from the sebaceous glands.

 

1.5 What are Cosmeceutical Serums?

 

Serums are potent skincare products that pack high concentrations of active ingredients into the skin. These are light, fast-absorbing formulae, enriched with ingredients that go deep into the skin or hair to perform the necessary treatment. Serum formulations do not act like moisturizers since their molecules are smaller, making them easier to be absorbed and go deeper. They represent the apex of science in advanced skincare combined with practical application, having strong solutions for skin and hair issues.

 

1.5.1 Benefits of Cosmeceutical Serums

 

These concentrated serums can therefore isolate issues and deal with them effectively. Adding serums to your skincare regime imparts several benefits associated with hydration, brightening, and firming of the skin for a youthful, radiant glow. Following are some of the key benefits associated with the use of serums:

 

1.5.2 Key Ingredients in Cosmeceutical Serums

 

Serum ingredients are nature-specific and hence, their efficacy is based on them. Hyaluronic acid provides hydration, while Vitamin C brightens the skin. Retinol and peptides support anti-aging activities; niacinamide is linked with improved skin tone and texture.

1.5.3 Types of Cosmeceutical Serums

Serums are formulated differently to manage various skin and hair problems: face serums meant for general skin issues such as ageing, acne, and discoloration, among others; hair serums to nourish the hair, and control frizz and add shine. Other varieties of serums include:

 

 

1.5.4 About Healthyr-U Cosmeceutical Face Serums and Hair Serums

 

 

• Healthyr-U Anti-Hair Fall Overnight Serum - The Anti-Hair Fall Overnight Serum by Healthyr-U is designed to subtly support hair strength and reduce breakage. With a blend of carefully selected ingredients, this serum works overnight to help nourish the scalp and reinforce hair fibers, contributing to healthier, more resilient hair over time.

1.6 What Are Cosmeceutical Creams?

 

Cosmeceutical creams are high-performance skin solutions that blend cosmetic and therapeutic functionality. Active ingredient-enriched creams aim to beautify the appearance of skin and its health; hence, they have moisturizing and anti-aging effects. They form the bridge from the realm of everyday cosmetics to more specialized pharmaceutical treatments.

 

Most of the cosmeceutical creams are rich and emollient, developed for hydration, nourishment, and skin protection. They can create a physical barrier on the skin surface that prevents water loss and keeps the skin hydrated. Their thicker consistency compared to serums allows them to soften the skin and improve absorption, so they are quintessentially an integral final step in a skincare regimen (36).

 

1.6.1 Differences Between Cosmeceutical Creams and Serums

 

Although both are essential in a skincare routine, creams and serums perform diversified functions. One major difference between a serum and a cream is basically that, in comparison to creams, serums are normally light with highly concentrated levels of active ingredients focused on certain skin problems. On the other hand, creams are thicker, further hydrating, and nourishing, forming a protective layer. Normally, a serum is applied first so its benefits can be maximized, then a cream is applied over it to lock in the moisture and further hydrate (36).

 

1.6.2 Benefits and Uses of Cosmeceutical Creams

 

Cosmeceutical creams offer several benefits to the skin. They moisturize the skin in depth, leaving a soft and supple skin. They also protect the skin from environmental damage and early aging. The cream can treat dry, sensitive, or aging skin, depending on the ingredients (36).

 

Some of the principal uses and benefits include:

1.6.3 Key Ingredients in Cosmeceutical Creams

 

Cosmeceutical cream derives its power from the use of thoughtfully selected ingredients. Emollient and occlusive are both key components in skincare products, particularly in moisturizers Humectants, like hyaluronic acid, enhance water intake and promote its retention, while emollients create a protective layer. Occlusive then seal in the moisture. Besides, antioxidants, peptides, and ceramides enhance skin health and renewal (36).

Key ingredients and their benefits:

 

1.6.4 About Healthyr-U Cosmeceutical Face Creams

1.7 Incorporating Cosmeceuticals into your Skincare Routine

 

The most effective cosmeceutical integration in your skincare routine vastly enhances the health and appearance of your skin. The integral steps of the process encompass the identification of the skin problems, correct choice of cosmeceuticals for your skin type, application in the correct order, and finally, the element of consistency.

A good skincare routine should be designed on the choice of cosmeceuticals targeting specific concerns. It involves the definition of skin type and setting goals, then applying products in the right order to derive maximum benefits from these highly advanced formulations (36).

1.7.1 Identifying skin concerns

Much of the effectiveness lies in your skincare being correctly geared towards meeting the needs of your skin. Typical problems include fine lines, wrinkles, dryness, oiliness, acne, sensitivity, aging, and hyperpigmentation. Your skin type can also be critical to the choice of appropriate cosmeceuticals, whether oily, dry, combination, or sensitive (36).

1.7.2 Choosing products according to your needs

Next, after having identified your skin concerns, you must pick products that will benefit you accordingly. Go for cosmeceuticals that have active ingredients that could help in solving problems. For anti-aging, try to find products containing either retinoids, peptides, or antioxidants (22), (29). In case you want to hydrate, go for formulations with hyaluronic acid or glycerin in them (32). Of course, ensure all the products you use are appropriate for your skin type and issues so that you get optimum results.

1.7.3 Creating your customized skincare routine

Once you understand your skin type, concerns, which products to use and in what order, create your own customized skincare routine which you will be following daily. Prepare a set of products for your morning routine and a set for night-time regimen. This AM-PM skincare will help you to stick to your schedule. You can also experiment with different cosmeceutical products to check what suits you the best. Consider creating a skincare planner to keep track of your routine and ensure you're staying on schedule.

1.7.4 Layering products correctly

Layers should always be from thinnest to thickest so that everything applied can absorb well into the skin. The ideal sequence would be: cleanser, toner, serum, then moisturizer; the final step in this routine would be sunscreen. The order enables the skin to benefit from the active ingredients in the products. However, that doesn't mean the process, or the layers would always be the same (36).

1.7.5 Keeping it Consistent

Usage on a regular basis is the key to seeing and sustaining benefits of any skincare program, including cosmeceuticals. Many cosmeceutical products begin to show noticeable improvements within weeks to a few months. Sunscreen and pollution protection are very important to your skin's overall health and will help maintain such benefits. (36).

1.8 Summary

 

Cosmeceuticals are skincare products that possess the properties of both cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, capable of performing cosmetic and therapeutic functions. The term was coined in 1984 by Dr. Albert Kligman, meaning any products that go beyond traditional cosmetics by adding active ingredients such as retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, and more. These ingredients are then targeted at specific skin issues: aging, acne, hyperpigmentation, or those that change the structure and functioning of skin. While regular cosmetics work at the superficial level of beautification, cosmeceuticals enhance collagen production, improve skin texture, and solve many other skin problems. Cosmeceuticals come in many diverse forms, although serums and creams have a very wide following. Serums are light and hence provide high concentrations of active ingredients, which would help to target the treatment. Creams are richer and thus provide hydration and protection. Assembling cosmeceuticals into skincare routine involves the following steps: first, understand your skin type; second, choose suitable products; and third, apply them correctly. That way, one will have healthier and more glowing skin with long-term results!

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